Facial Makeup notes

Chapter 24: Facial Makeup
Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding of facial makeup because clients will rely on you to advise then on tips and techniques, you will use basic techniques to enhance the hair and chemical services you provide, you need to understand the various categories of facial makeup products and when and on whom they should be used, and highlighting and contouring will help you to hide less attractive features.
COSMETICS FOR FACIAL MAKEUP (p. 758-765)

• Foundation (base makeup)- tinted cosmetic used to cover or even out the coloring of the skin; used to conceal dark spots, blemishes, and other imperfections; comes in liquid, stick, and cream forms; one of the newest trends is mineral powder; apply a small amount to the jawline to check if it matches skin tone; foundation should be removed from container with a clean spatula and applied with a disposable makeup sponge
• Color primer- applied to skin before foundation to cancel out and disguise skin discoloration; available in green, lavender, amber and some other colors (green disguises; lavender reduces yellow; amber covers purplish tones)
• Foundation chemistry- made up of a mixture of water and oil spreading agents that contain talc and various pigments (color agents)
• Liquid foundations- water-based; made mostly of water with an emollient; dry quickly with a matte (non-shiny) finish
• Oil-free foundation- usually made with an oil substitute that can be greasier than oil; check to be sure it is good for use on oily or acne-prone skin
• Cream foundation- oil-based; thicker; often sold in jar or tin; may or may not contain water; heavier coverage; intended for dry skin; produce a shinier appearance
• Line of demarcation- obvious line where foundation starts or stops
• Comedogenic- produce comedones
• Concealers- thick, heavy type of foundation used to hide dark eye circles, dark splotches, and other imperfections; come in a wide variety of colors and needs to be closely matched to skin tone
• Face powders- cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted or scented, that is used to add a matte finish to the face; comes in loose or pressed
• Cheek color- also called blush or rouge; used to add a natural-looking glow to the cheeks or extra color to the face; comes in powder, gel, and cream
• Lip color- also known as lipstick or lip gloss; a paste-like cosmetic used to enhance the color of the lips; usually comes in a metal or plastic tube and is available in a variety of colors; some contain conditioners to moisturizer or sunscreen to protect; available in many forms including creams, glosses, pencils, gels, and sticks; they are a mixture of oils, waxes, and color dyes
• Apply at outer corner and move toward the middle. Repeat on other side. Connect center with rounded strokes. Repeat on the bottom. Lipstick should be even and symmetrical on both sides of the mouth.
• Lip liner- a colored pencil used to outline the lips and keep the lipstick from bleeding into small lines around the mouth; lip liner should not be a dramatically different shade from the lipstick
• Eye shadow- cosmetics applied to the eyelids to accentuate or contour them; available in many colors; may be in stick, cream, pressed powder, and dry powder form; some are designed to be used wet or dry
• Darker shade of eye shadow makes the iris appear lighter; a lighter shade of eye shadow makes the iris appear deeper
• Eye shadow colors are referred to as highlight (lighter than the client’s skin tone), base (medium tone), and contour (deeper and darker than the client’s skin tone) colors
• Eye pencils and sharpeners should be cleaned before each use
• Eye liners- a cosmetic used to outline and emphasize the eyes; available in a variety of colors; available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), or felt-tip pen form; made of wax or hardened oil base with color additives; according to the AMA, eye pencils should NOT be used to color the inner rim of the eye due to risk of infection
• Eyebrow color- also known as eyebrow shadows; used to add color and shape to the eyebrows; chemical makeup similar to eye shadows
• Eye makeup removers- special preparations for removing eye makeup; usually water or oil based
• Mascara- a cosmetic preparation used to darken, define, and thicken the eyelashes
• Greasepaint- heavy makeup for theatrical purposes; cake makeup or pancake makeup is heavy coverage makeup pressed into a compact and applied with a moistened cosmetic sponge; outside the theater it is used to cover scars and pigmentation defects

MAKEUP BRUSHES AND OTHER TOOLS (p. 765-766)

• Powder brush-large, soft brush used to apply powder and for blending the edges of color
• Blush brush- smaller, more tapered version of the powder brush used to apply powder cheek color
• Concealer brush- usually narrow and firm with a flat edge; used to apply concealer around the eyes or over blemishes
• Lip brush- similar to concealer brush with a more tapered edge; used to apply concealer or lip color
• Eye shadow brushes- available in a variety of sizes; the softer and larger the brush, the more diffused and blended the shadow will be; a firm brush is better for depositing color than blending it
• Eyeliner brush- fine, tapered, firm bristles; used to apply liquid liner or shadow to the eyes
• Angle brush- firm, thin bristles; angled for ease of application of shadow to the eyebrows or shadow liner to the eyes
• Lash and brow brush- comb-like brush used to remove excess mascara on lashed or to comb brows into place
• Tweezers- available in metal and plastic; used to remove excess facial hair
• Eyelash curler- metal or plastic device to give lift and upward curl to the lashes
• Pencil sharpener- used before each application of eye or lip pencil to ensure hygienic application

*Good, quality brushes will last a very long time; clean them gently with shampoo or brush solvent. Always clean with the bristles and ferrule (the metal ring that holds the bristles in place) pointing downward; reshape bristles and lay brushes flat to dry.
Disposable Implements (p. 766)

• Sponges- available in a variety of sizes and shapes, including wedges and circles; work well to apply foundation, cream or powder blush, powder, or concealer
• Powder or cotton puffs- made of velour or cotton; used to apply and blend powder, powder foundation, or powder blush
• Mascara wands- usually plastic; used to apply mascara on a client (disposable to ensure hygiene)
• Spatulas- wooden or plastic; wide flat base; used to remove makeup such as lipstick, foundation, concealer, powder, blush and shadow from their containers
• Disposable lip brushes- may be plastic or some other synthetic; used to hygienically apply lip color
• Sponge-tipped shadow applicators- used to apply shadow and lip color or to blend eye lines; may be used to remove unwanted makeup from eyes and lips
• Cotton swabs- may be used to apply shadow, blend eyeliner or remove unwanted makeup from eyes and lips
• Cotton pads or puffs- may be used with astringents or makeup remover; used to apply powder products

MAKEUP THEORY
Primary colors-fundamental colors that cannot be obtained
from a mixture; primary colors are red, blue, and yellow

Secondary colors- obtained by mixing equal parts of two
primary colors; yellow with red makes orange, red with blue
makes purple, and yellow with blue makes green

Tertiary colors-obtained by mixing equal parts of a
secondary color and its neighboring primary color;
the two colors are next to each other or Touching

Complementary colors- primary and secondary colors
directly across each other on the color wheel;
when mixed together they cancel each other out
and make a neutral brown or grey color;
when placed next to each other, each makes the other look brighter
(try putting orange beside blue- both will look brighter)

 

Determining Skin Colors

• You must first decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark; then you must determine if  the tone of the skin is warm or cool
• Warm colors- range from yellow and gold through the oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and even some yellow-greens
• Cool colors- dominated by blue, greens, violets, and blue-reds
• Three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client: skin color, eye color, and hair color

Selecting Makeup Colors

• Neutral skin tone- contains equal elements of warm and cool
• Match your foundation to your skin tone
• Choose eye, cheek, and lip colors to match the skin color in level or contrast for more impact
• Neutrals are always your safest choice as they work well with any skin tone, eye color, or hair color
• Contrasting eye color with complementary colors will emphasize the color most effectively
• Complementary colors for blue eyes: orange is the complementary color for blue so eye colors such as gold, peach, copper, mauves, plum, taupe, or camel look best
• Complementary colors for green eyes: red is the complementary color for green so red-orange, red-violet, violet, copper, rust, plum, mauve, and purple work well
• Complementary colors for brown eyes: brown eyes are neutral and can wear any color

 

BASIC PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP APPLICATION (p. 771-772)
Client Consultation

• Consultation area should be clean and tidy
• Natural lighting (if not possible, a combination of incandescent and fluorescent)
• Client consultation: gather as much information as possible (skin conditions, how much makeup is usually worn, is this for a special occasion, likes/dislikes, time available to do makeup…) Record all responses and your recommendations; an instruction sheet will also help the client be successful when she tries to do her makeup at home

Corrective Makeup
Facial makeup can create the illusion of balance and proportion

• Highlighting- emphasizes a feature
• Shadowing (using dark colors and shades)- minimizes prominent feature

Analyzing Features and Face Shapes

• Types of Face Shapes
• Oval- considered most ideal; ¾ as wide as it is long
• Round-broader than oval face; rounded chin and hairline
• Square- wide forehead and square jawline
• Triangular (pear-shaped)- jaw is wider than the forehead
• Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) – wide forehead and narrow, pointed chin
• Diamond- narrow forehead and wide cheekbones
• Oblong- long and narrow

• Face is divided into three equal horizontal sections
• From hairline to top of the eyebrows                                  
• From top of the eyebrows to the end of the nose
• From the end of the nose to the bottom of the chin

 

 

• Always use translucent powder to set foundation so that it is not transferred onto the client’s clothing

 

• Eyebrows
• Ideally can be drawn in three lines:
• vertical from the inner corner of the eye upward
• angle from outer corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye
• vertical from the outer circle of the iris upward

 

• Eyelashes
• Artificial lashes make lashes look fuller and longer

 

• Band lashes (also called strip lashes)- eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied to  the natural lash line with adhesive

 

• Individual lashes- separate eyelashes applied to the eyelids one at a time; sometimes referred to as eye tabbing